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A pair of Summer Dawns

A friend invited me to room with her on a trip to Playa del Carmen that she was going on with a group of her friends in August, and of course I said yes!  Leading up to the trip, I sewed up a bunch of summer clothes.  My idea was that I wanted a lot of loose, flowy clothes made from breathable fibers, preferably with no zippers or buttons.

I definitely wanted some maxi dresses for strolling on the beach and I have several gorgeous rayon knits that are just begging to be made into a wrap dress.  But the only wrap dress I had previously made that I actually liked was the Named Olivia, but that wasn't quite the style I was after.  So I took a look at my pattern stash and decided the Striped Swallow Summer Dawn had the look I was after.  It has lovely gathers at the shoulder seams, fluttery sleeves and ties that wrap all the way around the body.

Since I'd never sewn this pattern before, I figured I'd try making a wearable muslin of the shorter version first, to minimize the loss of fabric if it turned out to be terrible.  I chose this gorgeous tie dye rayon spandex in shades of blues, reds and black  

My current measurements put me in a size XXL.  I'm 5'9" and I knew I should probably add length, but I decided to make it with no modifications just to see, but also because lazy.  As you can see from the above photos, it was pretty short.  I'm not opposed to short, but I've just become more comfortable with skirts that are a tad closer to knee length than this one turned out to be.

So, to fix it, I used some of the leftover fabric to create a ruffle.  I cut as many 8" strips as I could and sewed them together into one long strip.  Then I folded it in half lengthwise, gathered it along the raw edges then lined them up with the right side of the dress along the hem and sewed them together.  Then, pressed the seam allowance up toward the dress and topstitched it down.

It adds length and also gives it a good weight at the hem that just makes it feel nice to sashay around in.

I also like that the front skirt piece is wide enough to have plenty of overlap so there is no flashing everyone if the wind picks up.  I'm pretty pleased with the lovely flutter sleeves too.

And here's the view of the back.

I've worn it a few times and I have gotten compliments each time.  I really do love this dress.

The second version I made from a Lavender/White/Black/Glacier Gray Modal/Rayon/Lycra Daub Watercolor Floral Print Jersey Knit from Fabric Mart. The photos of this maxi version were taken on the balcony of our room at the beautiful Paradisus resort in Playa del Carmen the day after Hurricane Grace blew through.  Where we were, she was still a category I hurricane and other than the minor inconvenience of all alcohol sales being banned after 5 pm on the day she hit and the pool being closed for a bit the next day, the storm didn't have much affect on us.

The maxi skirt is a separate piece from the short skirt -- well pieces.  To save paper, they have the top and the bottom of each maxi skirt piece and instruct you to place them 15.75" apart and then suggest using a long, straight ruler to help cut the straight lines between the pieces.  I didn't alter the length of this skirt and it just happens to be pretty perfect.

The pattern doesn't have pockets and it is the one thing about my tie dye version is missing, so I added some inseam pockets to this version.

Other than being a bit squinty, I like how these photos came out.  I need to setup a place at my house that has good natural light and a neutral colored background so I can easily get better photos without traveling to Mexico..

This pattern is definitely a winner for me.  And there is no doubt that I will be making it again. 

Seamwork Skipper

I have been hording this retro floral jersey knit fabric from Fabric Mart for years.  I just love a good retro print that is reminiscent of the 60s or 70s.  

I have been wanting to make a hooded sweatshirt dress for a while, so I thought I would finally cut into the precious to make one and decided on the Seamwork Skipper with the member bonus dress option.   Honestly, I have much more of this fabric because a little while after I bought my initial standard 3 yard cut, I saw it on the 70% off section for $2.40/yd, so I bought 10 more yards.  Yeah....I totally don't have a problem with hoarding fabric.

I made this back on August 2nd, 2020 and took these photos the next day.  It was like 110 degrees (at least it felt that way!) so it's not styled the way I actually wear it -- with some nice warm grey leggings and cozy boots.

I underlined this dress with a pink cotton lycra just to add an extra layer of warmth and I lined the hood with self fabric.

The Skipper dress is a cocoon style silhouette, so I'm not overly concerned about the fit, since it should be bagggy.  I added inseam pockets, but I now think a kangaroo pocket would have worked much better on this dress.  The other thing I'm not loving is the size of the hood.  I get hoodies as gifts all the time from family and from work, so I know how I like my hoods to fit and this on is just way too big.  It sort of flops into my face when I wear it.  So I would swap it out for another hood, but I have yet to find one that I'm happy with, so finding the perfect hood is going to be a low-key goal of mine now.    

Overall, this dress is a solid choice for lounging around the house or going out to run errands, but I don't think I would wear it to a party or the office -- although during this time, neither of those things are even a consideration. 😁

Top 5 of 2020


I try to do these every year, but since I'm so bad about blogging my makes, I often do the year end summary about items I haven't written up yet.  No worries, this year will be the same.  But as I was working on this post, I did go back and update previous years to link to any blog posts done later. 

Top 5 Hits

The 5 most worn or most loved makes from my year, shown in the order they were finished.
  1. NYE Dress - This was actually made at the very end of 2019, but I had already published my top 5 for the year.  I used the Seamwork Kenedy pattern slimmed down below the hips to be more of a straight dress and a gold/black flip sequined fabric and I combined a gold and a black fringe to make a couple rows of rows of fringe at the bottom by just sewing them one on top of the other.  Everything else I wore was from Amazon.  

  2. Greenstyle Clara - I did both of these for contests and I love them both so much!

  3. Itch to Stitch Causeway Bomber - this reversible jacket is definitely among my top favorite makes of all time.

  4. Pattern Emporium Palazzo Pants - these are flattering and fun.

  5. Mom's Suki - I hacked the Helen's Closet Suki Robe to have a high/low hem and a band that goes all the way to the bottom.  I lengthened the sleeves and added fringe to the bottom.  I really love how it turned out.

Top 5 Misses 

I didn't make a ton of things this year, so it's not like I hate these makes, but they are certainly the least successful of what I did manage to produce.
  1. Fab Forty Shirt - Early in the year I tested the Fab Forty Shirt from Annelaine Patterns.  I made 2 of them and the first one was pretty cute.  The second on I thought it would be fun to use glittery elastic for the crossed shoulder straps.  I also used a stiffer knit and the neckline just doesn't drape right and just bows out and looks strange.  Plus, the elastic is not comfortable.  

  2. SSE Seattle Shirt - I just really don't like this shirt.  I'm 85% sure it's because of the fabric and not the pattern, but I just haven't given it another go yet.

  3. Seamwork Skipper - There are a few things wrong with this dress, but the most annoying is the hood is enormous and just isn't practical to actually wear.

  4. Sew Liberated Lichen Duster - This duster looks great from the back, but the front is a mess.  I don't like the insets -- they are just awkward to assemble an I'm not crazy about how they look.  I also didn't do well with the shawl collar and the entire front edge and so it doesn't sit right without me needing to constantly fiddle with it.

  5. Paprika Zircon - I made this with a pretty drapey knit and I think it turned out better than it probably should have.  I also underlined it and the two layers don't hang correctly together.  So, at some point, I will probably undo the hem and let the dress hang for a while to settle out before re-hemming.

Top 5 Highlights

  1. I got to go to the Sew Expo!  This was the very last scheduled event that I was able to go to before the world shutdown.  I remember vaguely thinking that it seemed a little risky at the time, but nothing had been canceled yet at that time. 
  2. We finally had cabinets put into the strange alcoves in our living room and they already feel like they've been there forever.

  3. Had deck refinished.  We let our poor deck go way too long without maintenance, so we needed to have several boards replaced and had the whole thing painted with a resurfacer paint.

  4. Got back into crochet - I made 3 blankets and a few other random things and I'm in the middle of some blocks for another blanket.

Top 5 Goals

Before we start, I would like to briefly comment on the status of last year's sewing goals.

  • Be better at planning for big events. I didn't get much chance to practice this! But I did participate in a few sewing contests, so I did some planning and executing to a hard deadline, so that counts for something.
  • Make pants. I did! They even made it to my top 5!
  • Make a new smooth dance dress Everything was cancelled and I lost my steam for getting this done, as well as my sewjo for a big chunk of the year.
  • Make a coat. I made a bomber jacket, so partial credit.  
  • Go to more social sewing events! Lol.
Now on to the goals for 2021.
  1. Make jeans. I had planned on doing a pair of Morgan jeans as part of my entry for the Pattern Review wardrobe contest, but then I changed my plans.  So I have the pattern copy shop printed and ready to start.
  2. Make a new smooth dance dress. 
  3. Make a coat.
  4. Make a quilt.  I joined a block of the month group on Facebook and I'm getting kind of excited about it! 
  5. Start my Christmas sewing earlier in the year!

I made a Jumpsuit!!

There are so many popular jumpsuit patterns right now!  I've been avoiding them because I hate having to get completely undressed just to pee.  But the Rational Dress Society Jumpsuit is one I've been meaning to make for years now.  So I finally jumped on the bandwagon and made it. 

This is a free pattern is quite utilitarian, which I love.  It has 248 different named sizes that are categorized by "fitted" and "unfitted", and the generalized body shapes described by I A or V.  I made size Asteroid, which is a fitted V shaped pattern. For reference, my measurements are 45", 34", 45" and I'm 5' 9".

I performed a very hacky FBA which can be seen below.  I don't have a before photo, but you can kinda see the edits I made.  This alteration also required an inch to be added to the length of the front fly pieces and I needed a longer zipper than called for.  Luckily, the one I was using was already too long, so I ended up just shortening less than I would have otherwise.

The floral denim I used has no stretch and is quite heavy and stiff, but there is so much ease in my jumpsuit that the fabric worked great.  And I used a gorgeous batik for the pocket bags.

I used a lovely salmon colored topstitching thread and sewed it with one of my other machines so that I didn't have to switch thread for every seam.  I like the way the contrast looks.

The sewing instructions are given via a series of videos and a written transcript of the videos is also provided. For the most part, I could get away with just using the written instructions, but for some of the trickier parts, I needed to watch the videos a few times to figure it out.

Turns out, the pattern is way too long in the body for me! The size I made was supposed to be for a height of 5' 6" - 5' 9" and I'm 5' 9". There is at least 6" that I can pinch out of the body without even trying.  When I make it again in the future, I will shorten the bodice by a couple inches and an inch or two from the rise and maybe even remove a little height from the waistband, because it's a little wide.  But I do actually like the way it looks belted and the one time I wore it out, that's the way I chose to wear it.

And, of course, I made a matching mask.  By now I'm sure everyone who is making masks has already found their favorite pattern.  I tried several, but my favorite pattern is the zippy mask, using a zip tie boning to keep it away from my face while I talk or breathe hard.  Most of mine just use ear loops, but I experimented with various other strap schemes and I like having one big loop on one side and a button on the other and it's been fun finding buttons that match.  For this one I had these two little pink pearlescent buttons, but I didn't think one would hold well, so I used two.  I don't love it with the two buttons and haven't worn it other than for this photo shoot, so I may end up using a different button or just converting it to use ear loops. 

I have grand plans to make this jumpsuit again for myself and one for my husband at some point in the future, but I will be drafting long sleeves for those versions.

This was a project I've been meaning to do for YEARS and I'm very glad that I finally got one made!

Pattern Emporium Lounge Dress

After I made the Pattern Emporium Palazzo Pants, I got an email announcing the release of a new pattern, the Lounge Dress.  I liked the look and since I was so happy with the Palazzo Pants, I figured I'd give it a try and use it as one of the two allowed dresses for the Pattern Review Wardrobe contest.

The pattern has several different options.  I chose the relaxed neckline, regular hem, long sleeves with pockets, of course.

I made a straight size 16 based on the finished measurements because I didn't want as much ease as is built into the pattern. For reference, my measurements are 45", 34", 45" and I'm 5' 9".  I am pleased with the fit.  It's cute, comfy and easy to wear, but I don't feel like I'm swimming in fabric.

I used a scuba fabric from my stash and it wasn't quite wide enough to cut the long sleeves, so I cut them an inch shorter to make it fit and increased the cuff width by an inch to make up the difference.  I also decided to cut the cuffs on the diagonal for a bit of interest.

I will likely make a couple more of these.  The only change I would make is I would add another inch to the long sleeves.